THERE may not be enough room to swing a cat - or the boat's dog - in the cabins of the barge Fingal of Caledonia, but there's a wide-open experience ahead and a warm welcome and hospitality on board.
This is cruising with a difference. There are no heirs and graces and the emphasis is on the outdoors and a bit of adventure combined with cruising through spectacular scenery and the comforts of good company and splendid home-cooking.
Fingal - a converted 1929 Belgian 128ft Spitz barge - sails the Caledonian Canal and the various lochs in between from Fort William to Inverness and back again offering a variety of week-long and four-day cruise holidays for up to 12 passengers.
My wife and I boarded the vessel and the top lock of Neptune's Staircase at Banavie for the first voyage of the new season - a four-day mini-cruise ending at Muirtown in Inverness. And the first thing that strikes you is the enthusiastic welcome of the helpful four-man crew who you will be in close contact with for the holiday.
On this boat everyone, passengers and crew, eat breakfast, lunch and dinner at the captain's table - a large square structure in the open-plan area between the galley and lounge. It's a homely and friendly arrangement allowing everyone to get to know each other very quickly.
You are advised beforehand your cabin is compact but to bring along clothing and accessories to cope with all weathers that a Highland season can throw at you. That means skillful packing and then flat-packing your bags onboard.
The ensuite cabins are small but have comfortable bunk beds, a hanging wardrobe area and wash-hand basin. There is an opening window, reading lights and full electricity for hair dryers, shavers and chargers. The ensuite has a toilet and powerful shower.
The accommodation is adequate for a week as for most of the time you are likely to be out and about on activities or on deck sightseeing or relaxing in the comfortable lounge with a drink from the reasonably-priced bar.
There is a routine around fixed meal times where everyone gathers together and details of itineraries and activities are also planned and discussed.
Just like every other cruise, food is a vital aspect - and Fingal's cook Tree Edmunds does not disappoint. From home-made soups and salads for lunch to hearty portions of meat dishes and vegetarian alternatives for dinner along with tempting desserts, the fare was delicious in good company.
At the helm was Martin Balcombe who founded the business 15 years ago - and it is worth watching him expertly manoeuvre the large vessel through the tight locks system. He is the regular skipper and was responsible for the redesign of the barge and recent refit of the cabins area.
The activities on offer during cruises range from mountain biking, walking, canoeing and sailing with set routes and maps available if required.
First mate Rob McInally took responsibility for activities instruction and outings and also acts as guide on cruises aimed at those wanting to walk the Great Glen Way in a week, joining up with the boat in the evenings.
Our four-day mini-cruise took us the short distance under the mass of near-by Ben Nevis from Banavie to Gairlochy on the first afternoon where there was time for an evening walk before dinner and a few drinks.
There are usually options to leave the vessel and meet up with it later and we took that up on the start of day two by cycling to the Achncarry Estate in the morning before rejoining Fingal which was berthed in Loch Lochy via its rigid inflatable boat.
After lunch, a cruise through spectacular scenery took us up to the overnight destination of Fort Augustus. We chose to walk the final five miles along the towpath from the locks near Bridge of Oich which still gave us some time for a refreshment in the village before returning to Fingal for dinner.
A blustery and showery day three saw Fingal sail up Loch Ness with a stop for lunch at Foyers and short guided walk to the famous Falls of Foyers where, if you're lucky, Englishman Rob will make a good effort at reciting the poem Robbie Burns penned about the waterfall.
The sail up Loch Ness will put a different relaxing perspective on the famous waters and scenery for those of us used to driving up and down the A82 with concentration fixed on the lochside road and its frustrations of heavy tourist traffic. And skipper Martin allows plenty of time for views of the iconic Urqhuart Castle from different angles.
The overnight stop is Dochgarroch where there is time for a walk or cycle along the canal path before a final night fun dinner of haggis, neeps and tatties with Englishman Martin donning the kilt to give a stirring address to the haggis.
The final short leg the following morning is to Muirtown Basin for a farewell get-together and mid-morning disembarkation.
An indication of the popularity of this type of holiday is a good number of return visitors and many full capacity sailings this year - and the fact that bookings are already being taken for 2012 trips.
And you do leave Fingal feeling you want to come back again soon to sample an unusual holiday experience again in a magnificent part of the country - hopefully with some sunshine thrown in next time, but knowing its essential to pack those waterproofs.
The facts
Location - Start points at Banavie, Fort William, and Muirtown, Inverness.
Accommodation for 12 passengers in six twin-berth cabins (there may be availability and deals for singles).
The vessel operates from late-March to late-October.
Prices range from £349 per person full board for a 4-day mini-cruise to £775 for 7-day Classic or Walk the Great Glen cruises.
Activities - cycling, walking, canoeing, sailing, wildlife watching.
For more details, call 01397 772167 or visit www.fingal-cruising.co.uk
